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Wandering the World

Stories and tips from around the world.

Jordan Day 9

Wadi Rum

As is often the case for deserts, it was cold overnight, but thick blankets kept me warm. I was reluctant to get up when my alarm went off at 06:00, but I needed to get ready for the group run at sunrise.

It was soon clear it’d be a while until there was enough light for photography, so we waited in the communal tent for a while before starting. Mercifully it meant it’d warm up a little during this time too. This run was largely about getting used to the terrain and the different types of sand we’d encounter. It was of course the perfect opportunity to get some desert running photographs too so it was a leisurely run with plenty of stops.

It was just after 08:00 by the time we were all back for breakfast. This was a buffet of all sorts, and there was enough time to relax before needing to be ready for five hours away from the camp. Again we had a packed lunch provided for this, and we shared out and swapped between us the bits we did and didn’t like. Three landcruisers turned up, and we divided ourselves between them based on what we were doing.

Wadi Rum

The first stop for all three vehicles was not far south of the camp, at a gigantic rock shaped like a molar tooth. If it hadn’t been for us having run around it earlier in the morning I’m sure we would have shown more interest there. Instead, we carried on bouncing across the sand, and watching this barren landscape all around us until we pulled up between rocky outcrops. It was here we got out and started walking around, and found that on the other side of this there was a bedouin camp of sorts with other tourists also wandering around in front of a massive archway that the elements had carved through the stone over time. It reminded me a little of the sort I’d seen in the Arches National Park. Though maybe not quite so ‘tidy’. The best way to imagine this is as two cliffs with a narrow stone bridge between them.

Wadi Rum

To one side of the arch there was a well-worn trail leading up to the top so you could walk across the archway. Most of the group started to climb whilst I was taking photographs, but I had to wait due to the number of people coming down by the time I was ready. It’s true it was probably possible to climb around the flow of people, but with my camera around my neck it wasn’t so easy.

Wadi Rum

Eventually the other group passed, so I climbed up just as our group was coming down. I then waited at the top to cross the archway, but managed to slip on the sand twice whilst up there. I stopped before crossing and looked down, if I slipped again here it wouldn’t be good. I thought perhaps it’d be for the best if I didn’t try it.

Our next stop was for the sand-boarding, and the land cruiser of people that wasn’t doing this carried on. Sand-boarding is something none of us had done before, and we’d need to do this without instruction and only one board between us all; though some had experience with snowboarding so we were expecting them to be good at this too. I’ve never skied or snowboarded so I had no idea what to expect. I watched as others slowly climbed up the tall sand dune one by one, to then come sliding down. With how many were losing balance I realised how hard it must be.

Wadi Rum

When it was my turn I took hold of the board, and Beetle’s GoPro, and trudged up the sand dune to the top. It was quite an effort to get up there, and using the board to pull me up didn’t help at all. In fact it loosened the sand and made it harder. Once at the top I paused momentarily. I had the sudden thought of keeping low like I did for surfing in Santa Barbara, and prepared myself to go, putting my feet loosely into the clips that would not tighten. I put my weight onto my right foot and turned the board around ready to go, left foot first. I held the GoPro out in front of me, got low, leant back, and then shuffled forwards. I started to move.

I suddenly realised just how high the climb had been as the board was picking up speed, and I wondered if this was a good idea the day before a marathon. I had no idea how to turn so I did nothing to control the descent, I just tried to keep my balance, occasionally putting my hand into the sand to feel it rush past. The others at the bottom stood up and cheered, seeming to think I was doing okay. Was I doing okay? I started to overthink what I was doing and could feel myself losing balance, and without realising it I was suddenly tumbling sideways and then forwards down the sand dune. I sat up, and was shocked at just how far I’d rolled away from the board. I then had to climb back up to make sure the GoPro I’d let go of was okay, and brushed off the sand that had gotten everywhere. Even my shoes were full of sand.

After we’d each had a single go, we were told to walk through the canyon to the other side, and the land cruisers would meet us there. It was a nice walk, and a chance for the group to get to know each other a little better. Four of them had been together on previous trips, but the rest of us were all new. After a short incline over a sand dune we then climbed down some rocks and carried on walking to where it eventually opened up with a lone tree in the middle. There, the land cruisers were waiting for us.

Wadi Rum

We were taken to another stone arch, this one was quieter and we managed to climb this one together. As there wasn’t so much loose sand on the top of this one I had no issues crossing the arch, and once we’d all got photographs we sat down with our feet dangling over the edge, and looking out across the Wadi Rum. It was a nice spot to have lunch, and again we spent some time chatting, covering topics such as what our favourite Christmas songs were - very topical for it now being December even if this Martian-like landscape showed no sign of this.

I suspect we probably stayed there longer than the drivers expected us to, and we headed to our last stop with some speed. This was a gorge with some mostly shallow water running through it. What was special about this one was the ancient writing carved into the walls. I got so far in, being careful to keep my feet dry. Eventually it got to the point where I couldn’t confidently keep my camera safe, and my feet dry, so I turned back. There wasn’t really anything to see beyond that point anyway.

Wadi Rum

The land cruisers then took us back to the camp, and I thought it’d be a good idea to go back to my tent for a shower. I’d been covered in sand from rolling down that dune earlier, so it was needed. As I opened the door I felt a sudden wave of heat pouring out of the tent - I’d left the curtains open and the desert sun had heated the room up to unbearable temperatures. On the other hand, the shower was freezing cold so they probably balanced out. I then had a nap in the tent until we needed to be introduced to the Doctor, and then hung around the communal tent until the evening meal at 19:00.

After everyone had eaten it was time for the race briefing. It was made very clear just how dangerous it is to run a marathon in the desert, and was told about the course and what to expect. There would be aid stations at various points, and the middle one would have some sort of toilet facility should one be needed. Having an inflamed bowel meant the likelihood of this for me was strong. There would be flags showing us the way, and if at any point we lose sight of them we should backtrack to where we can find them. If we strayed too far off the path in one area then we’d have ended up in Saudi Arabia. Best not to get lost. Even if we take our passport with us.

Tags: jordan travel trips

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© David G. Paul