Prague Day 8

Good Friday

I felt my watch vibrate at 06:00, to tell me it was time for us to get up. The plan this morning was to run to a cafe for breakfast, and then take the metro back afterwards. Carmen hadn’t slept that well, and was still tired. The apartment may have been pleasantly quiet, but the air was dry and everything seemed uncomfortable to either sit or lay on.

I’d misunderstood and thought we were delaying running, but were in fact delaying going for breakfast without a run. My marathon training this week had certainly taken a hit, but maybe with how uncomfortable it was running on cobblestones, maybe that wasn’t a bad thing nor was having another day ‘off’.

Once ready, we walked over to Můstek, and took the metro to Křižíkova. It was then only a short walk to Můj šálek kávy to see what we felt like for breakfast. I noticed when we got there that they were operating on special Easter weekend hours, and hadn’t opened until 10:00 - so it had worked out well that we’d not run there much earlier. We both decided on French toast with caramel sauce and pear, along with a cup of tea which with a tip came to 700 CZK. The french toast was really good - it was light and fluffy, and the pear was refreshing.

From where we had breakfast, we could see Vítkov close by - a place we’d previously only seen from a distance. There’s no path up the hill from this side, but there’s the Žižkov Tunnel that goes underneath the railway line and hill to get you to the side where there is a path up.

National Monument at Vitkov, Prague

At the top there’s an avenue leading towards the National Monument, and a cafe. It helps you get a good view from up there too, but it also provides a better view of the TV Tower, complete with David Černý’s baby sculptures crawling up it. To the north we could see the place where we’d started and finished the half marathon, and beyond that could see the ferris wheel of the amusement park where we’d collected our race number from.

We walked back down the hill and got on the metro at Florenc, and took that back to Můstek. One brief pitstop at the apartment later, we headed over to Legion Bridge and crossed that to walk along Kampa. The purpose of this was to see David Černý’s other giant baby statues, and the yellow penguins statues lined up near the river. The baby statues are strange, with faces that are designed to appear to have been crushed in, and tourists climbing over them.

David Černý’s babies, Prague

Rather than cross the Charles Bridge, which looked as busy as ever, we back-tracked and walked all the way to the Jirásek bridge. This one is near the Dancing House, so we took the opportunity to get a better photograph of that before slowly walking back, meandering through different streets we’d not yet been down. As a result we found two statues suspended above one street, hanging by umbrellas. They were designed by Michal Trpák, and called ‘Slight Uncertainty’.

A staue suspended above a street, looking like it's falling from an umbrella

We’d hoped to try chlebíček, a Czech-invented version of the open sandwich, but Sisters Bistro - a place we’d seen recommended, was closed for Easter. We’d have to find somewhere else another day; for now though, we went to the Bageterie Boulevard once again. I had more or less the same as before, using the voucher, but with no sauce, and I also ordered a cherry and chocolate mousse.

I’d thought some more about the minifigures in the Museum of Bricks, and went back to buy Buggy, a One Piece minifigure as it was slightly cheaper there than it would be off eBay. The other characters from that series would all be cheaper on eBay though. From there we took a shortcut to get back to near Clam-Gallas Palace, and continued slightly past it. A statue I’d missed but wanted to photograph was the Iron Knight (Železný rytíř) on the Prague City Hall, and also photographed the one of Rabbi Löw whilst I was there.

The legend says that Jáchym Berka, a knight serving the King of Luxembourg, was known to have worn black armour and was nicknamed the Iron Knight. Whilst off fighting in war, he’d heard rumours that his girlfriend had been unfaithful, and when he returned he stabbed her in a jealous rage. He was then cursed, and turned to stone. This statue is by Šaloun, the same sculptor who did the Jan Hus memorial in Old Town Square.

The other statue, Rabbi Löw, had been a Jewish mystic, mathematician, and astronomer in Prague. It is this rabbi who features in the legend of the Golem of Prague, the fictional creature that would protect Jewish people there from harm. The Secret of Secrets by Dan Brown is a story that leans on that legend, where one of the characters in it believes themselves to be the clay protector from the legend.

My sister sent me a message about the book tower in the library, but it was a place I’d not really thought about visiting. We found that it would be closed now until after we went home. It really wouldn’t have been worth wasting time queueing for it anyway - although I could see from my previous photographs of the square outside that it hadn’t been busy when we’d passed before.

We could hear music being sung, with a tune that Carmen felt was half familiar. It was coming from the stage in Marian Square where one of the Easter markets was located. When they switched to a song from The Phantom of the Opera, we were impressed by the notes they were hitting, paused to listen, and then made our way back to watch. They did several English language songs sung in the Czech language as well such as Elton John’s ‘I’m Still Standing’, but also did ‘Hey baby’ in English.

After a break in the apartment we headed back out for dinner. We wandered around the Old Town, and eventually gave up on looking at the many overpriced restaurants, and went back to Havelská Koruna for meatloaf and boiled potatoes. I also had an apple drink this time, and this came to 199 CZK. We also stopped by Tesco to get breakfast for the next two days, and lunch for tomorrow. The end of the trip was fast approaching, and we had no idea what to do tomorrow.

Tags: czechia europe prague travel trips