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Wandering the World

Stories and tips from around the world.

València Day 7

Flamenco

Neither of us had run since Sunday, which is very unlike both of us. So today we were up at 07:15 to get ready for a sightseeing run.

I led us first to the cathedral, and around the back to Placa del Virgin where there was a memorial for the victims of the DANA floods - a mass of silver and gold foil, with the names of victims printed out on sheets of paper scattered over it. Candles in protective sleeves surrounded it, and burnt slowly.

Valencia Cathedral In memory of the 2024 DANA flood victims, Valencia Cathedral Placa del Virgin, Valencia Cathedral

From there we found our way to Torres de Serranos. I'd originally planned a route that would have us join the Turia Gardens there, and would run through them all the way to the City of Arts and Sciences so I could get a photo there with nobody in the shot. However, I had a sudden thought that whilst it was still early, maybe the House of Cats would have a cat around this time, so we ran there instead. It was a chance for Carmen to retake her photograph of the Parish of the Holy Cross at Plaza del Carmen as well.

When we got there, it seemed that once again there were no cats. Carmen crouched down and thought she could see something through the door of the house. I crouched down, almost putting my head on the ground, and could see a black cat staring back at me. As I stepped back into a crouching position, the cat came out and walked over to Carmen, and around here. When the sound of a vehicle was heard it then made its way back inside the refuge.

House of Cats Quart Towers, Valencia

I'd already thought that rather than add this detour onto the distance for the run we could cut it short, and suggested we run to the Torres de Quart instead, and work our way back round to the train station in a loop. The other tower was fenced off and wasn't allowing visitors, so it was good to know that now rather than trying to go up it later. When we reached the City Hall we then did a lap of the square.

It seemed like a good idea to have breakfast out today, as we knew there were plenty of places to get some in this general area, but somehow finding somewhere we liked and was open, proved difficult. Quite a few didn't open until after 09:00, which I felt seemed crazy - a bit late for the breakfast crowd!

We got all the way back to Russafa and did a lap of the streets around us before deciding on a place to eat. I had a chocolate waffle and Carmen had a slice of orange loaf cake; which together came to only €2.60. I think I'd hoped to find places like we'd been to in Larnaca.

After I’d showered, we headed out to the beach, taking the 93 bus to get there once again. For the next couple of hours we slowly roasted under the sun in the cloudless sky. I did my first ever barefoot run, and did two miles on the sand, with the second mile faster than the first. It caused a blister on both big toes though.

I’d borrowed waterproof phone cases from my sister, for me and Carmen to use, so I made use of one of them to get photos in the sea. The water wasn't too bad temperature wise, and whilst I did get wet almost from head to toe, I didn't bother swimming whilst there. Carmen joined in before we left, just to get her feet wet in the Mediterranean Sea for the first time in a while.

Malva-rose Beach

As we’d not really thought about lunch, we got churros and Buñuelos from Buñolería Churrería El Contraste, a café close by to the apartment. One quick change later we were back out, and heading to the ceramics museum. However, we’d not considered siesta time, or checked the clock; it was closed for the next few hours. Siestas aren't exactly at midday as you might think, but can be any time between 14:00, with some even being as late as 15:30 which was the case for a shop Carmen had wanted to visit.

It seemed like a good time to have some lunch, so we went looking at places to eat, but couldn’t decide on any of them. I suggested the central market again as it seemed like a good idea, but between only having thirty minutes before they closed, and too much choice, Carmen struggled to decide what she wanted. I wanted her to find somewhere she liked, but was unsure what to suggest.

After some deliberation, Carmen decided the best place to try was Café Bar El Tostadero; it was a place that sold bacadillos - a type of Spanish sandwich. This time it was me that couldn't really decide. There were several different options, but of the ones they had the only one I felt like was Bocadillo de tortilla - a sandwich containing a Spanish omelette. Carmen had an easier time of this, and decided to have a bocata romana - one filled with battered cuttlefish bites. For €8.90 together, it was actually a good value lunch.

Parroquia de San Nicolás de Bari y San Pedro Mártir

We then walked back past the market, and beyond to Parroquia de San Nicolás de Bari y San Pedro Mártir. I’d heard this baroque church was impressive, though had some reservations due to the price compared to other places in Valencia. When we found the alleyway the entrance is hidden down, we paid the €15 per person to go in, and decided that it wasn’t that bad really as every inch of the church is hand painted with artwork.

A little before 16:00 we found somewhere to sit as the church then turned into a fifteen minute light show illuminating the ceiling and occasionally the main reredos. We’d perhaps not chosen the best seats as craning our necks back for fifteen minutes got uncomfortable after a while.

We then once again visited Llinares for ice cream, where I had one with a scoop of truffle and one of banana with chocolate and nuts. Once we’d eaten, we walked back to the area we’d just walked from, in order to queue up outside the Teatre Talia ready for the Tablao Flamenco Theatre at 17:30. Even over thirty minutes early there were several people queuing ahead of us.

In the same way that paella is a Valèncian dish, and not Spanish in general; flamenco is not really a Valèncian thing, it’s something that originates from Andalusia. Despite this, there are many flamenco shows in València that are aimed solely at tourists. Someone was constantly trying to hand out flyers for this one, and we’d seen posters up in several locations.

Inside the theatre you can sit wherever you want, between downstairs and upstairs. On the stage were a few chairs, and a slightly raised platform the dancers would use to make their heels sound louder. It started with four male performers: one with a guitar, and one who would be drumming a box he was sitting on. The other two were mainly singing, and they started the performance with a traditional song.

I was surprised to see people photographing and videoing the performance, so decided every now and then I’d take a few shots or clips as well. It was something I did hope would be possible, but I didn't think it would be. When I attempted to take photographs, I’d take several in one go so when the dancers came out I could try capture the movements smoothly, and would be out of other peoples way as quickly as possible. It wasn't always so easy to do though, as the person in front of me moved from side to side a lot, and I couldn't see over them. For about half of the performance they had their phone out recording to once side, so I had to wait for gaps in this too.

Teatre Talia: Teatre Tablao Flamenco

There were two female performers who performed different types of flamenco dancing in different traditional dress. The guitar player also had a solo at one point to give the others a rest. The show lasted for about an hour, and when we left there it was dark even though it was only 18:30.

I'd remembered the shop Carmen wanted to visit would be open, so we walked there next, and she was able to get the print of a robin that she'd seen in the window a few days previous. Rather than walk all the way back, I suggested we took the bus from near the ceramics museum to Lidl. There we bought some food for tonight, and for tomorrow for just €6.58 . We'd be having crunchy chicken burgers in bread rolls with salad tonight, and I got these cooking as soon as we got back to the apartment around 20:00.

After we’d eaten I browsed the internet for a while and saw an article from today summarised as ‘Thousands of Travelers Left Isolated Across…’ and could see mentions of Spain and British Airways. That’s us? I thought.

I checked the article and scrolled down, having missed the affected Spanish airport being just Barcelona, but London Heathrow was mentioned. I couldn’t see any flights from Valencia being affected so I figured we’d be okay. I decided I should keep an eye on it over the next couple of days in case the issue repeated.

Tags: europe spain travel trips valencia

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© David G. Paul