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Wandering the World

Stories and tips from around the world.

Rwanda Day 4

Rwandan Wildlife Conservation

In the early hours of the morning I was woken by a cramp in my left leg, but was able to relax the muscle quickly, and go back to sleep for a while. At 06:30 I got up and had a snack before getting ready to meet the others for a morning run. Fortunately my calf felt fine. Even at 07:00 it was humid out, but we decided to keep it short and run a mile to where the tarmac road runs out, and then from the dirt track run back for breakfast. It was a route that one of them had already done earlier in the morning, and it being an out and back meant on the return I could run ahead and get breakfast as early as possible so I could shower and pack. Nick B on the other hand had to go straight back out as he was doing an 06:30 (UK time) online run club.

CENETRA Hotel

The road runs out

Due to reports of traffic we set off fifteen minutes earlier than planned. We then drove for about twenty minutes to Umusambi Village to learn about the conservation efforts they do there. Their main focus has been the Grey Crowned Crane, the one they use in their logo, but they also help other birds and small mammals.

We went first to a viewpoint for seeing the cranes from a distance, so I was lucky I’d got my big lens at the ready. There’s another viewpoint there where we saw a kingfisher as well. There was great teamwork in pointing out different things to look at.

Grey Crowned Crane

We walked to where the vets work on helping the animals, but they weren’t yet working. We moved on to the butterfly house and got to see quite a few different species such as the African Queen - a type of monarch butterfly. They shown us how for growing plants they're trying to be more sustainable with the pots they use too. We also went to another viewpoint by a tree planted by King Charles III of the United Kingdom before heading back to the exit.

Sustainable growth

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After a quick stop for drinks, we had one of the vets talk to us about the work they do as well. This was then time for a bus ride to Rugezi marsh: a protected wetland that feeds the river Nile. This was a fair drive, and after 2.5 hours we took a break at Nyabugogo Bus Station. This first time we passed through, it was actually fairly quiet there compared to when we drove past on later journeys. Some took this opportunity to have ice cream; and others freed some pigeons that were cooped up. Okay, not intentionally, but it happened. They flew back though, so all was not lost. Sorry Daniel, but that was so funny to watch.

Nyabugogo Bus Station

Not too long after that we reached a rough narrow track down into the valley. The valley was quite the view: farming terraces and trees on the hillsides, and what looked like a mass of grassland and water below. It wasn’t actually grass though, not exactly, it was marshland that was twelve metres deep in places. This place is run by the Rwandan Wildlife Conservation Association as well, and they were waiting for us, rangers singing and dancing in welcome. Once introductions were complete, we headed down to one of the other terraces where a long table had been prepared, and a buffet for lunch. Lunch with an incredible view!

Rugezi Marsh

Rugezi Marsh

I ate fairly fast as I was eager to start taking photographs of the area. I could see herons in the water, and someone else spotted a pelican swimming towards us, yet still far away. When everyone was done we made our way down to the water and split up into two groups to take two wooden boats. One had a roof to it, but I thought that could hinder photography so I decided to board the other even though it’d mean more exposure to the sun. I’d got a baseball cap on, hopefully that’d help.

I’d had my doubts whether the snap decision was the right one, as the sun being out and warm meant that many of the bigger birds were trying to avoid being out during the hottest part of the day. Smart. As the sun hid behind a cloud, we started to see more wildlife such as an ibis and herons. Somewhere in the distance we could see locals with bundles of marsh grass on their backs, destroying this habitat. Our guide told us it was illegal, and those that have signed agreements to accept seed for growing as feed instead of grass are not supposed to do this. I was later told that people that do things such as this, or poach, are often moved into women’s cooperatives so they can make money to live doing something else. The one we’d be visiting later though is one that is raising money for the RWCA.

We eventually saw another pelican and managed to see it flying! We also saw more Grey Crowned Cranes as well from a distance. The guide told us about the different species here, and also a little about the conservation process. I thought I’d heard thunder but decided it was my imagination; I think others disregarded it as being the loud cow we’d heard earlier.

As we started to head back the guide spotted a dark cloud, and then pointed at the rainbow which we could see both ends of. He said that when you can see a rainbow, it’s done raining. We heard thunder again, no denying what it was this time. Seconds later it started to rain, and got heavier and heavier. The person rowing the boat rowed harder and harder. I didn’t really realise how wet I was getting to start with as I was photographing a spoonbill and a couple of pelicans. The other boat, with the roof, looked on at us in amusement.

Rugezi Marsh

African Spoonbill and Great White Pelican

A couple voiced some concern on how easily the bus could get back up the dirt track if it rained too much. I guess that sort of thing doesn’t always make it into risk assessments, but hopefully it wouldn’t be a problem. We’d get back up the hill later one way or another.

When we got closer to the shore we could see someone walking out through the marshes with what looked like a bundle of umbrellas. An incredibly kind gesture, though maybe not the best idea in a thunderstorm. We took them off him anyway and used them to try to avoid getting any wetter. It didn’t take long before it felt like I was actually drying off. The downside though was that the person rowing could not see past the umbrellas, and crashed into a grassy bank.

Ahead of us, the boat of people staying dry with a roof, were disembarking and being given blankets. It looked like they’d been through some traumatic experience. When we got off our boat, despite being wet, many of us didn’t bother with a blanket as if we were making a point. In good humour of course.

We then went up the hill to see the tents that are used by rangers who look after the trees that have been planted there. Our time had come to an end, and once back on the bus we realised the road was dry and it was easy enough for the driver to navigate back up. Sure the bus leans over quite a way in places, and in others is very close to the edge, but these drivers are good and know what they’re doing. We have to remember they do this all the time.

Women's Co-operative

Our final stop of the day was at the women’s cooperative that raises money for the Rwandan Wildlife Conservation Association. We were told about what it is they do, and how long some of the items can take to make. This is a new venture in the last couple of years so they don’t yet have a guaranteed income from selling their goods. One of their smaller baskets for example would only cost 5000 RWF, so it’s incredibly cheap. Impact Marathons commissioned them to weave the medals for race day, so between that and everything we bought as well, they had a good day of sales. It really validated all their work was worthwhile, and is something that is going to work for them. Hopefully as tourism improves things will get even better for them.

Women's Co-operative

Outside we had a group photo, and then they danced and sang before we began our journey to Musanze. It took us about two hours to get there, and this time there was music and bus games. People were singing along to the likes of Toto’s ‘Africa’, and Elton John’s ‘Circle of Life’ from The Lion King. On the latter track the audio cut out in the bus to our dismay. Many of us suspected Manual, the driver, had pressed the mute button. Dan came to our rescue with a Bluetooth speaker, and started playing more popular hits.

Once we’d checked into the hotel we went for pizza in the restaurant. There was a brilliant selection of chicken, pepperoni, Hawaiian, and one we think was tuna and olive.

I stayed up late talking in the group, but left long before some of them did. It had been another great day.

Tags: africa rwanda travel trips

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© David G. Paul